The Last Christmas at Greenwell Springs

Dec. 23, 2010

By Woody Jenkins

GREENWELL SPRINGS — Dec. 25, 1860 — 150 years ago this Saturday — was the last Christmas celebrated at the resort village of Greenwell Springs, where Greenwell Springs Hospital is located today.

The healthful properties of the water at Greenwell Springs had been known by the Indians from time immemorial, but in August 1853, Robert Greenwell sold 250 acres of land at the site for $1,650 for development as a summer resort.  A village was laid out, and a popular hotel, the Greenwell Springs Hotel, was built on the site.  Samples of the spring waters were sent to respected chemists who declared it to have “the most valuable medical qualities.”  Bottled water was shipped far and wide, and the mineral baths became popular.

A regular schedule of stage coaches ran several times daily from Baton Rouge to Greenwell Springs.  People from Baton Rouge and other places began building summer cottages on the property.  A grand dance pavillion, the Spring House, was built above the springs.  It provided a gay and beautiful place for dances and other events.  Dr. Jessie Fairchild in his “Historical Sketch of Greenwell Springs” said, “The gentle banks rising on either side of the Spring House created a natural amphitheater and it was utilized as such on the occasion of public or political speech-making.”

The Grand Opening of the resort was held June 1, 1854, and was attended by 300 or 400 people.  They enjoyed a barbecue and danced at the Spring House.

Dr. Fairchild said, “The interval between 1854 and 1860 was a lively period at Greenwell Springs… It had become an exclusive summer resort catering to the social elite of Baton Rouge, New Orleans, and the surrounding parishes.  It was the thing to do to either own a cottage or to board out at Greenwell Springs.”

But in November 1860, Abraham Lincoln was elected President, and the nation was soon on the verge of war.  December 1860 was a time of alarm in Baton Rouge.  The Secession Convention met at the Old State Capitol and voted that Louisiana would secede from the Union.  In early January 1861, Louisiana forces occupied federal facilities in Baton Rouge.

A few people gathered at their cottages at Greenwell Springs to celebrate Christmas on Dec. 25, 1860, but the resort would never again be the same.  By April 1861, the South was at war.  The Union forces occupied Baton Rouge, people fled to Greenwell Springs, and the resort became a refuge camp.

In the election of 1860, Vice President John Breckinridge had carried Louisiana.  By 1862, he was Confederate general.  He used Greenwell Springs as the staging ground for the Battle of Baton Rouge.  Greenwell Springs barely survived four Christmases during the war — 1861, 1862, 1863, and 1864.  Little is known about the life of individual residents during those years, except that life was hard, and the area was the scene of skirmishes and raids.  The Yankee raider Grierson came through the area in 1863.

On Christmas Day 1864, Union Major John H. Clybourn of the 12th Illinois Cavalry, wrote of his action on Christmas Eve: “Met a part of the rebel Col. Bob Hunter’s command between Benton Ford and Burlington Ferry; captured 4 prisoners; arrived at Burlington Ferry at 4 p.m. on the 24th instant.  Found a large ferryboat that could cross ten horses at a time.  Crossed by command and marched to Bogan’s Ford on the Comite River, nine miles from Burlington Ferry.  Ran across a gang of jayhawkers, under the command of Capt. Bob Hooper… charged them and captured 4 of them, swam my command across the Comite River… Learning from a Negro that the rebel Lt. Brannan and Lt. Brown were at the house of Mr. Granville Pierce, on Greenwell Springs Road, I charged up with a party of ten men and surrounded the place, but could find nothing of the rebel officers.  I am certain they were hid away in the house.” (Note: Burlington Ferry was just south of the Greenwell Springs resort.)

After 1864, the cottages at Greenwell Springs were dismantled to provide building materials for the reconstruction of Baton Rouge.  The hotel burned in 1865.

Christmas 1860 remains the last Christmas before the storm.

Editor’s Note: Want to see something that remains of the resort of Greenwell Springs?  Spring Street, which was part of the village’s plan, still connects to Greenwell Springs Road, just north of the hospital.