Greenwell Springs: Fashionable Resort and Spring House in 1850’s

GREENWELL SPRINGS — In May 1852, Richard Odom purchased extensive land holdings from the heirs of John Sims.  On August 6, 1853, Odom sold to his son-in-law, Robert W. Greenwell “250 acres of this land, containing several springs,” for the sum of $125.  Thereafter, the springs became known as “Mr. Greenwell’s springs.”  Within a short time, both the springs and the community came to be known as simply Greenwell Springs.

Today Robert W. Greenwell is buried in a small cemetery on Denham Road just west of Greenwell Springs Road.

The several years before the Civil War were a period of prosperity.  Cotton and sugar cane had created a sizable class of wealthy citizens, and it was only natural that they would seek comfort and curative powers of the various health resorts and watering places, both here and in Europe.

The local population was already aware of the excellent health-giving properties of the waters.  Thus, the stage was set for the development of a resort at Greenwell Springs.  The promoters would be two distinguished gentlemen from Baton Rouge — William S. Pike, Sr., and William H. Crenshaw.

On August 9, 1853, Pike and Crenshaw jointly purchased the resort for $1,650. They proceeded to develop it into a summer resort, utilizing the springs, the Amite River, and the beautiful virgin woodlands as natural attractions.

During the latter part of 1853, Henry and William G. Waller, surveyors and civil engineers, surveyed out a subdivision of the land between the Greenwell Springs Road and the river.  It consisted of at least 125 lots.  A system of streets was developed, one of which remains in use today—Spring Street.

Toward the end of 1853, samples of the spring water were sent to various chemists to ascertain the chemical analysis and the possible therapeutic value of the waters.

The results were very encouraging.  Statements from famous chemists published in the Baton Rouge Weekly Comet included the following statements:

“Many renowned mineral springs in Europe are not as rich in iron as this.”

“The intelligent physician will at once perceive that this water possesses the most valuable medical qualities.”

The spring site was covered by a large shed, on top of which was built a large dance pavilion.  The “Spring House,” as it was called, was constructed so as to serve as a visitor’s lounge and a meeting gallery.  The gentle banks rising on either side of the Spring House created a natural amphitheater, and it was utilized as such on the occasion of public or political speech-making.

At the end of Magnolia Street and situated on the high bluff overlooking the Amite River was a large hotel, built to accommodate those who wished to board out.  The ballroom is said to have been the largest room in the parish, and the dining room is known to have accommodated more than 70 people at a sitting.  Immediately in front of the hotel dining room was a large building which housed the billiard saloon and bowling alley.  Bathhouses were located on the river bank for the convenience of the swimmers.  The mineral bathhouse was located a short ways down the streamlet from the Spring House.  Neat pine cottages were available to the visitors.  Additional privately owned cottages were scattered throughout the subdivision.

Greenwell Springs was able to advertise a barbershop, a bar, a large commissary, a post office, a large stable, servant quarters, and utility buildings.

Set back a short distance from the high bluff of the Amite River was a large private school for area children.

In January 1855, Dr. F. J. B. Romer purchased for the sum of $1,686.50 approximately 11.5 acres of the Greenwell Tract.  He then established the Greenwell Springs Infirmary for the treatment of black people.  It sought to utilize the medicinal values of the spring waters.

The summer season for the resort officially began either in May or June and usually lasted through September or October. On June 1, 1854, Greenwell Springs officially made her debut into the high society of health resorts and watering places under the management of Captain and Mrs. William Markham of the fashionable Harney House in Baton Rouge. The festive occasion was celebrated by some 300 to 400 people who barbecued among the pine trees and danced at the Spring House to the music of a brass band.

The interval between 1854 and 1860 was a lively period at Greenwell Springs.  It was during this time that she was at the zenith of her popularity.  Greenwell Springs had become an exclusive summer resort, catering to the social elite of Baton Rouge, New Orleans, and the surrounding parishes.  It was the thing to do to either own a cottage or to board out at Greenwell Springs.  Reservations were usually made for the entire season.

As early as May 1854, Hutchinson’s Livery Stable was running daily omnibuses and stages to Greenwell Springs, leaving Harney House at dawn and returning to Baton Rouge at sundown.  The fare was $1 each way or $1.50 for a round-trip ticket.

The four-horse Clinton Stage could make one leg of the trip in approximately two hours.  By 1855, there were at least three other stables in Baton Rouge making daily runs to Greenwell Springs, transporting the guests and supplying the provisions, ice, and the many necessary supplies for such a distinguished group.

The two hours or more necessary to make the trip would at times prove to be an ordeal, especially during times of heavy rains.

By mid-summer 1855 the governor was in residence and detachments from the Federal Garrison in Baton Rouge, including the field band.

The census for September 1, 1855, showed a population of 163, but during the seasonal epidemics of yellow fever, the daily census was said to reach as high as 1,000.  The fact that no cases of yellow fever occurred at Greenwell Springs during 1854 and 1855 helped to give importance to its popularity as a health resort.

The village itself was unique among villages. There was no form of government.  The residents lived in complete harmony and maintained their own strict code of ethics. Opportunities for swimming, fishing, and hunting were virtually unlimited.

Evening entertainment was especially impressive at the resort.  The Spring House was usually the focal point of activities.  It was here or in the main ballroom of the hotel that nightly dances were held.  The officers and men of the Federal Garrison were often invited up to the barbecues and dances to the delight of both the men and residents of the Springs.

On one Saturday night, the field band was unable to break up the dance at midnight, even after playing sacred music.  Merriment abounded.

Night events at Greenwell Springs were always held in truly spectacular settings.  The main approach to the hotel from the Greenwell Springs Road and the road from the hotel to the Spring House were brilliantly illuminated by bonfires on elevated platforms.  Pine-knot fires lighted the other streets and tallow candles provided light in the cabins.

To view the resort from the Greenwell Springs Road at night was to behold awesome beauty.

By Dr. Jesse L. Fairchild, Jr